In printed knitwear and sharp tailoring, the Paul Smith Men’s autumn/winter 13 collection is rich in texture and touched with modernity
Developing spring/summer 13’s sun-blushed colour palette, for the new season wintry shades of purple and turquoise are complimented by citrus tones and contrasted with more muted khaki and black.
Fabrics from the archives of Italian mills are rewoven to offer contemporary interpretations of sartorial staples. Cloth normally used by couturiers and thick alpaca bouclé are delivered in unexpected colours, creating modern wardrobe essentials. Belted military overcoats are lined with long haired sheepskin and quilted trousers, jackets and even a cape come in boiled cashmere cloth filled with white Hungarian goose down. With every stitch and dye, traditional fabrics are injected with fresh appeal.
Print is a focus across the collection, particularly in magnified houndstooth patterns on shirting and in hazy marbling on outerwear. Knitwear contrasts hardened edges with bright soft mohair. Ties tight, shirts buttoned and trousers high, jackets come short in the body, worn under double-breasted, patterned overcoats. Prim and proper pops of colour are strong throughout tailored pieces.
In accessories and footwear the classics have been revitalised with modern construction; the Paul Smith holdall comes in contrasting gold and silver plated hardware against Spanish leather dyed in jewel and complimentary colours and the Chelsea boot is reworked with a zip back and trainer sole.