In the vaulted hall of the Central Saint Martins building, Paul Smith presented a spring/summer 2014 collection alive with optimistic colours and soft feminine interpretations of tailoring classics
Sensuality and elegance is introduced to the collection in relaxed shoulders, gently cinched waists and loose necklines. Two key shapes define the predominant tailoring story; a single button jacket is short in the body with finely accentuated lapels that extend into the shoulder seam, whilst a second longer and less structured jacket delivers a graceful movement and fluidity to looks. A fuller trouser shape imbues a sense of 70’s nostalgia, with a high-waist, pleated fronts and voluminous leg.
A familiar vibrant colour palette delivers freshness and positivity for the summer season. Intense bursts of bright blue and sunshine yellow come through the collection in two-piece suits followed by breaths of tranquillity
in all white looks.
With conventional men’s garments forming the focus of the collection in shirts, suiting and structured outerwear, femininity is injected in fabrication. Light almost transparent silk voile shirting sits beneath jackets, unbuttoned low to reveal panels of skin, giving a strong sensuality to many looks. Whilst a kaleidoscope of colours combine on a hand-knitted chiffon vest-top and cap-sleeved sweatshirt.
Though blocks of colour dominate, injections of traditional textile patterns that are given contemporary interpretations make appearances across the collection, a digital dogstooth print for example appears on a lucid turquoise trench coat and high-waisted mini shorts. Meanwhile a bright yellow daffodil bursts into bloom on a loose blouse and shift dress. In a soft cotton silk mix, almost suggestive of denim, there’s a casual suit jacket with over-dyed cheque pocket details.
Contrast bonded edges, polka dot lining and mismatched cuff buttons retain the Paul Smith trait of delivering the unexpected. With necks often open, all models finished their looks with Paul Smith’s new fragrance, Portrait for women.