PAUL SMITH

Spring/Summer '19

Inspired by a history of subculture so synonymous with British style, Paul Smith Spring/Summer’ 19 challenges familiar sartorial codes

Tailoring for today is confidently presented for both men and women. Informed by his personal experience of softening the stiffness of tailoring in the early-Eighties, Paul reinvigorates the suit. Tailoring remains at the core of the Paul Smith world and with rare independence the designer confidently contradicts the zeitgeist.

An exaggerated shape is reminiscent of trends gone-by, but contemporary relevance is delivered in construction and styling. Where once 500-gram tailoring cloths prevailed, now the same shapes appear in lightweight 200-gram wool, allowing for the versatility required for today. Ease and function is deeply entrenched in the Paul Smith ethos and is celebrated with the looseness of silhouettes and the nuance of sportswear inspired by Paul’s own love of cycling. The palette of pastels in bright and dreamy shades are often mismatched in suits and on leather trousers and outerwear.

Women’s tailoring echoes the men’s in cut and cloth but a distinct identity comes through in the confidence of the Paul Smith woman, who takes on a fresh, strong attitude. Suits are broken into separates and hand-drawn prints dance across light but form-fitting dress shapes and skirts with structures that strike a utilitarian theme. Checkerboard socks and intarsia knits are inspired by races to the finish-line and deliver a touch of humour in signature Paul Smith style.

Having pioneered the use of photographic printing techniques in the early stages of his career, Paul revisits the process this season with a renewed precision and finesse. An avid photographer, Paul’s father, Harold inspired Paul’s own love of taking pictures. For Spring/Summer '19, archival photography by both Paul and his father appear throughout the collection, most noticeably on outerwear for men and in a more painterly style on fluid dresses and coats for women.

In footwear, typically British designs are embraced and then exaggerated. The loafer and the Chelsea boot are twisted in proportion and shape, often Goodyear welted. For women, a new lace-up ankle boot is introduced in snakeskin and handbags interpret the finish-line flag in a woven leather checkerboard.
Continuing the celebration of British design, the new Paul Smith collaboration with Cutler and Gross is showcased for the very first time. An iconic Cutler and Gross frame is given an injection of Paul Smith colour and will be available from PaulSmith.com immediately following the show.

PAUL SMITH

Spring/Summer '19

Inspired by a history of subculture so synonymous with British style, Paul Smith Spring/Summer’ 19 challenges familiar sartorial codes

With tailoring forever at the heart of Paul Smith, the collection celebrates the suit and reasserts its relevance. Confident statement suits are presented for both men and women. In the opening look smooth satin lapels roll into dense pleats with jacquard wool sleeves woven with dancing fairies. On single pieces, houndstooth is panelled alongside Prince of Wales check and leather juxtaposed with hardy British tailoring cloths. The added length in jackets is a nod to Paul’s own past when in the Eighties he led a confident movement to relax the suit again reasserting its relevance.

Muted colour builds to a crescendo of bright red. Illustrator Edmund Dulac inspires a romantic palette of midnight blues, deep purples and other jewel-tones. Painterly prints bring a much-needed sense of optimism and respite from world woes and are delivered in other-worldly psychedelic florals and ethereal moonlit landscapes. Of particular prominence in the collection is the Dreamer print, seen most vividly in the intricacy of woven lambswool and mohair knitwear.

For women, tailoring is similarly relaxed but always has form. Suit jackets are deconstructed but follow the female figure, hugging at the waist to give a naturally confident shape that is never masculine. Satin dresses have an effortless elegance and appliquéd ribbon bows give detail and are inspired by Paul’s own drawings of flowers.

In outerwear length is again accentuated. The perfect timeless Epsom coat in a traditional English fabric is given an unexpected burst of vibrancy in turquoise and heavy leather coats appear in the Dulac-inspired jewel-tones. Leather engineering boots and tool bags further contrast the softened, relaxed tailoring.

Friendship bracelets and charms on necklaces and earrings bring to life the theme of escapism and a sense of individuality and self-expression.

Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show
Paul Smith Spring/Summer '19 Catwalk Show