For Autumn/Winter '16 Paul Smith embraces his past, exploring some of his design signatures including stripe, print and tailoring
Stripes are recurring, woven into cashmere knitwear and running the length of tailored coats. Tailoring cloths are engineered to incorporate Lurex pinstripes and micro houndstooth. Dinosaur prints and knitted jacquards peep from beneath the layers, while digitally-printed peaches on technical bomber jackets reference Paul’s pioneering use of photoprinting techniques.
Embracing the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s, lip-shaped fastenings on leather belts and tasselled loafers are finished with toadstool and peace sign charms.
Outerwear is a focus. The Epsom coat is the centrepiece of the collection and is presented in a multitude of ways: sheepskin and cashmere, peaked lapels and notched lapels, single and double-breasted. Coats are styled on top of layers of classic tailoring and colourful knitwear, trousers are often flared and heeled leather boots extend above the ankle.
Paul’s longstanding passion for cycling informs the colour palette where contrasting shades of peach and bright green often form stripes that are reminiscent of the vividly coloured knitted jerseys worn by the heroes of the sport.