For autumn/winter 2015, Paul Smith glances back to an early catwalk show he held in Paris’s Andrée Putman gallery, which saw an innovative use of colourful tailoring set against an austere concrete backdrop
Now presenting a confident and contemporary reinterpretation; tonal suits have an updated feel with exaggerated shoulders and high waists but are consistently wearable.
Colours are influenced by artistic adventurers Josef and Anni Albers. References come both from their work and their travels through Mexico; muted tones of oatmeal, grey and light peach sit beside more sun-drenched hues of orange and green. Shades combine in a striped triangular motif on silk scarves, jacquard knitwear and light cotton shirting. The geometry is developed in a recurring use of blocks on wool outerwear, cashmere blankets and tailoring constructed with especially fabricated cloth.
Reminiscent of a '70s silhouette, familiar shapes are reenergised; wide shoulders, peak lapels and high breaks in suit jackets are matched by cinched waists on trousers and either slight flares or cropped legs. In all instances tailoring is functional with a distinctive silhouette to complement.
Full-length sheepskin coats bring the warmth that a cosmopolitan customer requires but remaining respectful of the principles that have kept Paul Smith stable for forty years. Occasionally the sheepskin is used as a detail on shoes and bags to update everyday utilitarian styles. Elsewhere loafers, straight shoes and desert boots have added modernity with exaggerated soles and expertly clean lines.
Welcome to the haus of Paul Smith!