For autumn/winter '15, a reenergised Paul Smith presents a fresh view of effortless but confident dressing that’s touched with femininity
With tailoring a strong focus of the collection, a more muted palette than usual predominates. Khaki and charcoal grey sit alongside midnight black but with punctuation points of vibrant colour never far away; whether in a dusty pink woollen suit jacket or a baggy mustard yellow shearling duffle.
The geometric check that was a focal point in the men’s outerwear is a motif that reoccurs in the women’s; sometimes in deep blue on a belted overall or in more sandy shades on overcoats. Pleated skirts, blouses and trousers also feature a jacquard cheque pattern which is then overprinted to bring dynamism to the designs.
Throughout the collection, whether in overalls or pantaloons, trouser legs are consistently wide, sometimes grazing the floor and sometimes cropped above the ankle. Tailored coats bring clean lines and slimness through the body whilst skirt silhouettes are expressive and high on the waist. Jackets nod to a traditional workwear piece from Paul’s own wardrobe in their shape and are often finished with oversized envelope-style pockets and enlarged enamel buttons.
With suiting central, tailoring cloths share the same distinction as in the men’s garments whilst femininity is injected through softer silks and woollen fibres. Thick knits with extremely high necks almost double as outerwear pieces whilst fine cashmere sweaters are cropped above the waist and come layered under masculine Epsom coats.
Drawstring knapsacks and clutch bags echo the clothing by using tonal shades of thick wool and leather. Simple gold jewellery accentuates the
geometry of the prints and is complemented by heavy heals on shoes which are blocked with contrasting shades of enamel or clashing cuts of snakeskin.
Trainers in hues that echo the garments bring a sense of formal functionality that always plays a central part in Paul Smith collections.